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Vw 2.0 timing belt tensioner8/30/2023 All Parts manufactured by DNJ are expertly tested, manufactured from top-grade materials, and all product meet or. VAG's OE numbers for the belt tensioner VAG OE-no. VW TIGUAN 2.0TD 2018 RHD TIMING BELT TENSIONER PULLEY 04L109243B OEM Quantity. This is a new Timing Belt Tensioner TBT319. You can also visit our page and enter the item number 8647 29096 for further information and an installation video. Set Compatible with Audi VW VAG 1.8 2.0 TSI/TFSI EA888 T10352 T40196 T40271 T10368 T10354 T10355 Crankshaft Camshaft Belt Drive Locking Alignment Timing Tool Kit. Correct adjustment of belt tension is achieved for both belt tensioners in the same manner and tightening is always done with the torque specified by the manufacturer. EWK Timing Chain Tensioner Holding Tool for VW Audi 1.8T 2.7T 2.8 3.2 4. Secondly, the tension on the Gates tensioner is set differently to that of Litens by turning counter clock wise instead of clockwise (see photo below). The IE Manual Timing Tensioner Kit is designed to give you timing confidence by completely replacing the 1.8T timing belt tension system with performance-minded. First of all, the Gates belt tensioner does not have the retaining lug (see below) on the backside, which means that no special attention has to be paid to if the lug falls into place in the recess on the engine's surface. There are especially two changes that are important to be aware of when replacing the tensioner. The affected engines are mounted in 368 different car models, dating back to 2003 and up to today, and for that reason the following information is very relevant. Gates has chosen to introduce a belt tensioner that differs from that offered by Litens. PEUGEOT 407 2.0 HDi TIMING CAM BELT KIT + WATER PUMP TENSIONER IDLER PULLEY. This belt tensioner wrench has two pins that lock into the pulley adjuster allowing proper adjustment. Last edited by dekhelia 10-08-2020 at 09:59 PM.It is no mistake when the belt tensioner in the timing belt kit - Triscan 8647 29096 - for VAG 1.2, 1.6 and 2.0 TDI engines does not quite look like the one that is to be replaced. A must have tool to correctly tension the timing belt on all diesels which have two holes on the face of the tensioner pulley. Sorry for so many questions, but I would be gutted to wreck this motor after all the work I put in to change it. Now I'm wondering whether this phenomenon occurred because the tensioner is in fact touching the shoulder of the stud - d'you think this is possible? When the timing belt is changed, serious mistakes are. Is this normal? I got around it by not tensioning it all the way to the notch, letting the nut, as it was torqued, move it the rest of the way. Large numbers of the VW 2.0L common rail engines (engine code CBDB) are installed in various models. I noticed also that while I was putting tension on the belt, I could get the pointer to line up in the right place with the notch in the back plate but that the pointer tended to move to the right as I applied torque to the tensioner nut. I've decided not to drive the car until I get the chance to check it.Īlso, I've read since I started worrying, that many techs think that the tensioner and/or idler stud can only be replaced a couple of times before the cylinder head tap that accepts the stud loses its ability to 'hold' the thread how true is this? And if true, is the only remedy to replace the stud with the M10/M8 part, as opposed to the M8/M8 one that I have? Not being aware of that, I just didn't check it. The thing is, I only came across your post, Crasher, about the critical importance of having the tensioner face touching only the flat cylinder head, and not any part of the tensioner stud shoulder which may be protruding above this. If it was going to go, would it have gone by now - or could it just happen at any time over the next few thousand miles? or is a matter of fatigue over time? I'm getting nervous because despite having just driven 400-odd miles at motorway speeds with my newly fitted cambelt and all the other associated parts, I can now hear a slight rattle from the area of the tensioner or perhaps the idler, which I'm sure wasn't there before. The INA Timing Belt Tensioner is a direct fit OEM replacement that contains the same high. Why, exactly, does the stud have to be replaced? Surely if it's seated right and correctly torqued, there should be no need. INA is an OEM Timing Belt Tensioner manufacturer for Volkswagen. The critical point with these is you must ensure the shoulder radius of the stud is below the surface of the head or else the tensioner will sit on the stud and it will fail, sometimes I have to tap the hole a little deeper to make sure it is recessed.This is making me slightly nervous. Certain models have a double sized stud, M10 into the head and M8 for the tensioner. We always replace both studs even if they don’t come in the kit.
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